“NEW TECH Yard Hydrant”
There are two options for termination of the water delivery tube; as shown here. There are also two handle options.
“NEW TECH Yard Hydrant”
An improved device from Raven Spirit Ranch,LLC
Over five years of development and testing.
making things more useful
Patent Pending
The colors of the hydrant shown in this photo are gray and moss green. The bottom section is dark gray, as a guide to bury depth. Moss green is the color on top, presenting an aesthetic look.
Let’s start at the bottom. The brass alloy valve which controls the water into and out of the hydrant is configured very differently than what’s found in typical pump-handle style yard hydrants.
The handle rotates just a quarter of turn side to side to control water flow into and out of the hydrant, instead of moving up and down.
There are NONE of these anyplace in the hydrant! This means these things cannot cannot go bad and cause stiffness or loosen up and start leaking.
These photos show the main outside protective tube in three sections. Making it in two sections gives a simpler cleaner look, if that’s important to you.
An earlier model with a rounded cap top. We use it in the court yard area to water the garlic bed and the flowers.
What about corrosion?
Have you ever dug up and taken apart one of the old pump-handle style hydrants after it’s been in the ground for a while?
It’s common for the rod connecting the handle at the top with the valve at the bottom to be eaten almost completely away by corrosion due to immersion in water every time the hydrant is turned on.
Also, in the old pump-handle style hydrants, the main tube is most often steel. Every time the hydrant is turned on the water reacts with the steel. After a while the corrosion may eat through the water delivery tube.
In the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant there is no steel in contact with water; not the handle rod, not the water delivery pipe. These problems caused by frequent contact with water disappear. What makes this possible?
NEW TECH Yard Hydrant minimizes wasted water when the hydrant is shut off and the water drains out. This is because of the size of the watery delivery tube. It doesn’t take a 1 1/4″ diameter tube to provide plenty of water in most circumstances.
Last but certainly not least in landscape projects is appearance. You have to admit the old pump-handle style hydrants are not the most attractive elements in a landscape. The NEW TECH Yard Hydrant is a simple pleasing design. And, and it can be painted to blend into any landscape scheme.
Block saddle termination of water delivery tube with a 3/4″ FNPT solid plastic connector.
HANDLE DESIGN
There are two different handle designs: Classic and Modern.
“Classic” is a six inch long PVC tube. The diameter and length are very comfortable for almost any size hand.
“Modern” is a trapezoidal prism, shorter than the “classic” handle, but still with enough length and leverage to make turning the hydrant on and off very easy.
Comment : In the photos on the left and right, it would actually be more aesthetic to have the modern handle on the hydrant to the left and the classic handle on the hydrant to the right.
WATER DELIVERY TUBE
The water delivery tube terminates in a 3/4″ swivel connector.
In one option the connector is connected to the end of a 6″ long tube 3/4″ in diameter. In the other option the connector terminates in a trapezoid prism shaped “saddle” attached to the outside of the outer protective tube.
Extended water delivery tube with termination in solid plastic FNPT swivel connector.
The NTYH comes with a brass alloy hose adapter so you can hook up and get started watering right away.
Specific To The NEW TECH Yard Hydrant
It’s designed and built for a bury depth of 24 to 30 inches, leaving plenty of room at ground level to fit a five gallon bucket under the water outlet. A hydrant with a bury depth of more than 30″ can be made, however there is a limit to how much.
If you’re going to a lot of bucket watering without an attached hose, we recommend the hydrant with the the longer water delivery tube instead of the saddle block.
You already know this.
For a yard hydrant to be frost proof the bottom of the hydrant, where the valve is located, needs to be buried below the frost penetration line. This depth varies depending on the area where you’re using it. See the map below for a general idea.
This map shows general frost penetration depths across the continental USA. For anyone who buys any frost proof yard hydrant check with your local building department to make sure of the specific bury depth you need.
A Note About Stabilizing Your Hydrant:
When you install your yard hydrant keep in mind where you’re going to put it and how you’re going to use it. With frequent use and any rough treatment it’s a good idea to stabilize it, not just put it into the ground free standing.
This is true for any type of frost proof yard hydrant, including the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant. Frequent use without stabilizing it, no matter the type of yard hydrant, is more likely to lead to problems. This is especially true in soil which doesn’t compact well.
Detailed installation instructions and suggestions for the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant are included with the hydrant. Much of it applies to the installation of any frost proof yard hydrant.
How did the NEW TECH yard Hydrant get started?
In short, the final straw was my wife’s hands. They got to the point where she could not raise and lower the handle of the old pump-handle style hydrant because of pain and weakness when she tried. But let’s back up a bit.
It’s exciting to move onto a bare piece of land with just a dream in hand. Then it turns into work. Once you have animals, there’s feeding and watering, and everything else that goes into taking good care of them. There’s the big garden. There’s also a small orchard, if forty-eight fruit trees is all that small for a “small” place.
Everything human, animal, and plant needs water. Water for the house is one thing, and it has it’s own set of challenges. Water for the animals and plants is something else entirely.
To get water where we need it we use frost proof yard hydrants. Like everyone else in our shoes, we purchased and installed the old fashioned ones with the pump-handle style handles, the ones that raise up to open and push down to shut off.
It wasn’t not long before the hydrants started to leak around the compression gasket at the top, around the valve control rod. There’s no problem getting water. It’s just a nuisance. For a few times you can tighten down the nut on the compression gasket to stop the leak, or at least slow it down. So everything is fine for a while, but it gets worse.
The hydrant in our barn gets turned off and on four to six times a day, mostly in the morning. The one for the garden and orchard basically is turned on in the spring and off in the fall, but only has water flowing to irrigate specific places at specific times. The one for the buck pen is turned off and on once a day. The one located half way between the house and the well is used maybe twice a week during the spring and summer. In short, we use our frost proof yard hydrants in a number of places and in different ways throughout the year.
After a while the hydrants which are turned off and on the most and the ones which are turned off and on the least start to have problems, although different types.
The hydrant in the barn stopped working properly on a couple of different occasions and I had to dig it up to fix it. In the process I discovered that the rod connecting the handle at the top to the valve at the bottom was corroded so badly it wouldn’t be long before it failed. The inside of the main pipe was so rusted it probably wouldn’t be long before it also failed. (The repair man at the local hardware store said he commonly found the same things when people brought in their yard hydrants to get fixed.)
The hydrant for the garden and the orchard, after being left off during the fall and winter, was so stiff that my wife had a very difficult time even trying to turn it on. It got to the point where she couldn’t. I had to do that for her.
So, I finally gave up trying to fix the old style hydrants and started looking for a better way to build a yard hydrant. In casual conversation with a neighbor one afternoon he made a comment wondering why smaller water lines didn’t have valves which shut off like larger water lines. The valve is a simple one which you turn by using a long rod with a device on the end which has notches that insert over protrusions on the valve. You reach down into the hole, where the valve is located, insert the notches on the end of the rod into the valve handle and turn. With that idea the direction for the development of a new type of frost proof yard hydrant began in earnest.
Such a simple idea, right? That was over five years ago and it hasn’t been as simple as it might seem to solve all the problems to make the idea work for a yard hydrant.
After many ideas have been tried and tested using many prototypes there is now a frost proof hydrant which eliminates virtually all the problems of the old style hydrants, and has additional benefits. It’s the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant.
The Prior model of the NEW TECH yard Hydrant installed next to the garlic bed. You can see the stabilizing arm attached to the building.
The NEW TECH valve housing shows the plastic alloy swivel connector on the left and the drain-out tube on the right. The flat bottom has four half inch tall legs.
This is an earlier version of the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant. The protective material we tried on the bury section of the hydrant degenerated rapidly, so we’re using a better one. Also the paint type and color of the upper section presented cover problems, so that also has also been changed to something better.
The two FNPT connectors shown above, one at the top and one at the bottom, are brass alloy. The current NTYH has plastic alloy ones. We found they work just as well and resist corrosion better.