“NEW TECH Yard Hydrant”

There are two options for termination of the water delivery tube; as shown here. There are also two handle options. 

“NEW TECH Yard Hydrant”

An improved device from Raven Spirit Ranch,LLC
Over five years of development and testing.

improveddevices.com

making things more useful

Some useful information is presented below. For you to take a look at more details, we need to agree on an NDA. We have one available at your request. If you have one you like better, send it along for us to go over. 

A Provisional Patent has been filed.

Thank you for your interest.
Let’s see if we can work together and both benefit.

The bottom section is dark gray, as a guide to bury depth. In this photo moss green is the color on top, but it can easily be changed.

Water supply to the hydrant is attached at the 3/4″FNPT connector on the side of the valve housing.

  • What’s “NEW TECH” about it?

Let’s start at the bottom with the rigid plastic valve housing. Inside is a brass alloy valve which controls the water into and out of the hydrant. It works differently than what’s found in typical pump-handle style yard hydrants. But, like the typical pump-handle style hydrants, water flow volume control is accomplished by what you attach to the hydrant, not the valve in the hydrant itself.

A major improvement is that the valve allows the hydrant handle to rotate rather than go up and down. In just a quarter of a turn, both on and off, you control water flow into and out of the hydrant. 

  • The hydrant handle does not get stiff over time. It stays easy turn even for someone with weak/painful hands.
  • It prevents leaks from developing anywhere in the hydrant. Because there are…  NO gaskets.
                                                   
    NO bushings.
                                                    NO seals.
                                                   
    NO “o” rings.

There are none of those things to go bad, meaning no digging up to fix or replace.

full hydrant classic handle left view

These photos show the main outside protective tube in three sections. Making it in two sections gives a simpler cleaner look, if that’s important to you.

An earlier model with a rounded cap top. We use it in the court yard area to water the garlic bed and the flowers.

What about corrosion?

Have you ever dug up and taken apart one of the old pump-handle style hydrants after it’s been in in use for a while?

It’s common for the rod connecting the handle at the top with the valve at the bottom to be eaten almost completely away by corrosion due to immersion in water every time the hydrant is turned on, unless you pay and extra $80 for a stainless steel valve control rod. 

In addition, with these the old pump-handle style hydrants, the main tube is most often an ordinary steel pipe. Every time the hydrant is turned on the water reacts with the steel. After a while the corrosion may eat the water delivery tube just like it does the valve control rod.

In the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant there is no steel in contact with water; not the handle rod, not the water delivery pipe. These problems caused by frequent contact with water disappear. What makes this possible?

  • The handle rod is isolated from contact with water. 
  • None of the other parts or materials making up the hydrant react with water, even frequent or prolonged contact.

A COUPLE OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:

NEW TECH Yard Hydrant minimizes wasted water when the hydrant is shut off and the water drains out. This is because of the size of the watery delivery/exit tube. It doesn’t take a 1 1/4″ diameter tube to provide plenty of water in most circumstances.

Last but certainly not least is appearance, especially in landscape projects. You have to admit the old pump-handle style hydrants are not the most attractive devices. The NEW TECH Yard Hydrant is a simple pleasing design. And, it’s easy to paint for it to blend into any landscape scheme.

Block saddle termination of water delivery tube with a 3/4″ FNPT solid plastic connector.

HANDLE DESIGN

There are two different handle designs: Classic and Modern.

Classicis a six inch long plastic tube. The diameter and length are very comfortable for almost any size hand. 

Modern” is a trapezoidal prism, shorter than the “classic” handle, but still with enough length and leverage to make turning the hydrant on and off very easy. It’s made of solid plastic.

Comment : It would actually be more aesthetic to have the modern handle on the hydrant to the left and the classic handle on the hydrant to the right, in the photos shown here.

WATER DELIVERY TUBE

The water delivery tube terminates in a 3/4″ MNPT connector, in either version. 

In one option this connector is attached to the end of a 6″ long tube 3/4″ in diameter and swivels. In the other option the connector terminates in a trapezoid prism shaped saddle block attached to the outside of the outer protective tube. The block prevents it from swiveling.

Extended water delivery tube with termination in solid plastic FNPT swivel connector.

The NTYH comes with a brass alloy hose adapter so you can hook up and get started watering right away.

Instillation specific To The NEW TECH Yard Hydrant

It’s designed and built for a bury depth of 24 to 30 inches, leaving plenty of room at ground level to fit a five gallon bucket under the water outlet.  A hydrant with a bury depth of more than 30″ can be made, however the details need to be clarified ahead of time.

If you’re going to do a lot of bucket watering without an attached hose, we recommend the hydrant with the the longer water delivery tube instead of the saddle block. 

You already know this for any yard hydrant.
For a yard hydrant to be frost proof the bottom of the hydrant, where the valve is located, needs to be buried below the frost penetration line. This depth varies depending on the area where you’re using it. See the map below for a general idea.

This map shows general frost penetration depths across the continental USA. For anyone who buys any frost proof yard hydrant check with your local building department to make sure of the specific bury depth you need.

A Note About Stabilizing Your Hydrant:

When you install your yard hydrant keep in mind where you’re going to put it and how you’re going to use it. With frequent use and any rough treatment it’s a good idea to stabilize it, not just put it into the ground free standing. 

This is true for any type of frost proof yard hydrant, including the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant. Frequent use without stabilizing it, no matter the type of yard hydrant, is more likely to lead to problems. This is especially true in soil which doesn’t compact well. Some people use cement, but that makes any future changes very difficult. The photo below shows one way of stabilizing a hydrant which works well, although it could be a little cleaner looking.

Detailed installation instructions and suggestions for the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant are included with the hydrant. Much of it applies to the installation of any frost proof yard hydrant. 

How did the NEW TECH yard Hydrant get started?

In short, the final straw was my wife’s hands. They got to the point where she could not raise and lower the handle of the old pump-handle style hydrant because of pain and weakness when she tried. But let’s back up a bit.

It’s exciting to move onto a bare piece of land with just a dream in hand. Then it turns into work. Once you have animals, there’s feeding and watering, and everything else that goes into taking good care of them. There’s the big garden. There’s also a small orchard, if forty-eight fruit trees is all that small for a “small” place.

Everything human, animal, and plant needs water. Water for the house is one thing, and it has it’s own set of challenges. Water for the animals and plants is something else entirely.

To get water where we need it we use frost proof yard hydrants. Like everyone else in our shoes, we purchased and installed the old fashioned ones with the pump-handle style handles, the ones that raise up to open and push down to shut off.

It wasn’t long before the hydrants started to leak around the compression gasket at the top, around the valve control rod. There’s no problem getting water. It’s just a nuisance. For a few times you can tighten down the nut on the compression gasket to stop the leak, or at least slow it down. So everything is fine for a while, but it gets worse with use over time.

The hydrant in our barn gets turned off and on four to six times a day, mostly in the morning. The one for the garden and orchard basically is turned on in the spring and off in the fall, but only has water flowing to irrigate specific places at specific times. The one for the buck pen is turned off and on once a day. The one located half way between the house and the well is used maybe twice a week during the spring and summer. In short, we use our frost proof yard hydrants in a number of places and in different ways throughout the year.

After a while the hydrants which are turned off and on the most and the ones which are turned off and on the least start to have problems, although different types.

The hydrant in the barn stopped working properly on a couple of different occasions and I had to dig it up to fix it. In the process I discovered that the rod connecting the handle at the top to the valve at the bottom was corroded so badly it wouldn’t be long before it failed. The inside of the main pipe was so rusted it probably wouldn’t be long before it also failed.  (The repair man at the local hardware store said he commonly found the same things when people brought in their yard hydrants to get fixed.) 

The hydrant for the garden and the orchard, after being left off during the fall and winter, was so stiff that my wife had a very difficult time even trying to turn it on. It got to the point where she couldn’t. I had to do that for her.

So, I finally gave up trying to fix the old style hydrants and started looking for a better way to build a yard hydrant. In casual conversation with a neighbor one afternoon he made a comment wondering why smaller water lines didn’t have valves which shut off like  larger city water lines. The valve is a simple one which you turn by using a long rod with a device on the end which has notches that insert over protrusions on the valve. You reach down into the hole, where the valve is located, insert the notches on the end of the rod into the valve handle and turn. With that idea the direction for the development of a new type of frost proof yard hydrant began in earnest. 

Such a simple idea, right? That was over five years ago and it hasn’t been as simple as it might seem to solve all the problems to make the idea into something simple and reliable which works for a yard hydrant.

After many ideas have been tried and tested using many prototypes there is now a frost proof hydrant which eliminates virtually all the problems of the old style hydrants, and has additional benefits. It’s the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant.

The Prior model of the NEW TECH yard Hydrant installed next to the garlic bed. You can see the stabilizing arm attached to the building.

The NEW TECH valve housing shows the plastic alloy swivel connector on the left and the drain-out tube on the right. The flat bottom has four half inch tall legs.

This is an earlier version of the NEW TECH Yard Hydrant. The protective material coating we tried on the bury section of the hydrant degenerated rapidly, so we’re using a better one. Also the paint type and color of the upper section presented cover problems, so that also has also been changed to something better.

The two FNPT connectors shown above, one at the top and one at the bottom, are brass alloy. The current NTYH has plastic alloy ones. We found they work just as well and resist corrosion better.